​Set-ups

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Cages:

• For hatchling up until 100 grams, I encourage a 6qt tub.

• For chondros 100-350grams, I encourage a 16qt tub.

• Rack system works best for these purposes anything younger than subadult.

• Back heat is preferred (side and top are okay but not bottom heat).

• Your hottest spot should reach 84-85 degrees BUT ALSO ALLOW FOR AN AMBIENT TEMP on the cool side of the tub.

• You don't want to overheat your snakes so ideally your cool spot should go less than 80.

• I would also recommend your room doesn't get too cold or too hot. I prefer low-mid 70’s in the room if possible. 

 

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Equipment:

ALWAYS USE THERMOSTATS SET UP TO ANY HEATING ITEMS.

• I prefer Herpstat thermostats or VE thermostats. These are some of the best proportional thermostats available.

• I set the probe up to the hottest part of the tub or directly on the heat tape and set it to 84-85 constant.

• No need for a temp drop for babies. 

• Always have separate tongs and separate equipment for each of your chondros.  

Air flow:

Allow for a gap of around 1/16’ at the top of the tub in the rack or a few 1/8’ air holes spread out over the upper middle of the tub for air exchange. Overdoing the gap or too many air holes might cause the cage to dry out faster or for the cage to lose heat. 

Substrate:

I never use substrate or a water floor for the bottom. I prefer paper towel, puppy pads, or kraft paper so that cleaning defecations is easier. It's simple and sterile and easy.

 

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Perches:

• All you need is a simple plastic coat hanger.

• Cut it up and fit one straight piece going straight from the hot spot to the cool spot place in the upper middle of the tub.

• Good rule of thumb is that perch thickness should be no thicker than the thickest part of the snake.

• I like to use “zip-tie adhesive back mounts” as the perch holders.

• Make sure when you cut up the plastic coat hanger it is a tight fit so it doesn't spin too much but still is relatively easy to remove.

• Removable perches are extremely helpful for chondros and make it easy to clean.

• No need for unnecessary zip ties, tape, screws or rubber bands holding things together in your enclosures as these are variables that could either come apart or harm your snake.

 

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Feeding

• Feed hatchlings and neos every 6/7 days.

• Bump the feeder one size up approx. every 8-10 meals so long as they have gained enough size.

• Try to feed only mice for babies and yearlings as they have more nutrition per size than rats of an equal size and are easier to digest.

• Make sure to get your feeders from a solid/reliable source.

• Try to only feed frozen thawed mice, no thicker than the width of the largest part of your snake.

• Provide fresh water so the meals are digested easy.

• Don't handle the snake within 2 days of it eating.

• No need to feed chondros going through a shed.

• Do not attempt to refreeze thawed out mice if the snake doesn't take and do not give the snake food items that other snakes have rejected. 

 

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Cleaning

• Clorox or lysol wipes work great.

• Animal-safe disinfectants should be fine, but make sure to let it air-dry at least 1/2 min, then make sure you completely wipe off the remaining disinfectant.

• Keep your cages sterile!!!

• Also try to clean the tongs after using them. Wash or disinfect them.

 

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Handling

• Try not to handle the snake too much but if you do, try to be gentle.

• NEVER pull them off a perch, just simply nudge them towards yours finger.

• Don't handle for a couple days after the snake has eaten.

• DO NOT PROBE YOUR SNAKE. 

 

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Quarantine

• DO NOT cross contaminate.

• Wash your hands.

• Gloves and sanitize before.

• Use different equipment.

• DO NOT try to reuse feeder items or tongs in between snakes.

• Keep your new chondro separate from other snakes so it has time to acclimate to its new house and overcome the stress from the move.

• When an animal is stressed, its more prone to disease and infection and if you own other animals its very possible you accidentally compromise your new snake.

• I recommend you quarantine for around 3 months or more.

• Do your due diligence with tests and examinations.

• Only introduce your new chondro into your standing-collection if your collection is “clean” of any disease, infection, or problem. 

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Hydration and Humidity

• Purified or spring water.

• Try to stay away from tap water if you can.

• Change your water & clean water-bowl after meals and/or any bowel movement.

• Usually babies defecate shortly after every meal, but if they don't, then still change out the water & clean the bowl at least once that week.(Disposable deli-cups makes this easy). 

 

For when to spray:

During shed, when you notice any wrinkles from dryness or if you want to encourage defecation. Usually i give clean water alongside spraying to achieve any of these goals.

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• I like to spray generously when going through shed.

• It's not as big a deal if the cage doesn't fully dry in between spraying when going through shed.

• Typically its good to allow for an enclosure to dry before re-spraying.

• If you notice dryness or want them to defecate, feel free to spray the snake and some of the surroundings.

• Just make sure you're spraying into a clean cage (and not a dirty one because bacteria harbors & multiplies in humid environments) and make sure you're allowing for it to dry out before respraying.

• You don't want your tub to be too humid all the time.

• If your cage dries out abnormally fast, I'd encourage you try to use a bigger water bowl place slightly closer to the heater or try to slightly limit air exchange cause thats how humidity escapes.

• Allow for normal gaps in the top of the tub (1/8’ gap or less) or air holes on the side but if there is too much, it will dry out.

• Let's not forget this is a microenvironment you are creating so all factors are in your control.